Beyond The Longest Dzong In The Kingdom
DAY1. Arrival at Paro international Airport:
The flight to Paro across the Himalayan ranges affords spectacular sights of the sacred Jhomolhari and Jichudrakey mountain ranges. And if you arrive via Kathmandu, you get to enjoy breathtaking views of Mount Everest and Mount Kanchenjanga as well. Upon arrival you will be greeted by our company guide who will escort you to your hotel. After freshening up and lunch your first excursion will be a drive to Drugyel Dzong, a ruined fortress 16 kilometers away from Paro town. Although it is in ruins today, the Dzong is of great historical significance as it was here that the Bhutanese resisted the Tibetan invading forces and drove them back. The Dzong was destroyed by a fire in 1951. From here the majestic peaks of Mount Jhomolhari can be seen on clear days.
In the evening we can explore Paro town and witness the activities at the archery ground. It is an opportunity for you to familiarize yourself with the sights and the sounds of Bhutanese culture. You will come to experience a wonderful convergence of the modern and the archaic. You need to note that throughout the tour the itinerary remains very flexible; the choice of places to visit remains entirely at your disposal. We remain but to serve you. Our experienced guides will continually make suggestions and keep we informed about any ad hoc special events and photo ops.
Night halt at Paro
DAY2.Paro sightseeing and drive to Thimphu
After breakfast we hike to the legendary Tiger’s Nest. We can either hike or opt for ponies. Taktshang is precariously perched on a seemingly impossible rock face at approximately 3,000 feet above Paro valley. It is a very sacred pilgrimage destination as well as a tourist hotspot. It is believed that Guru Rimpoche flew there on the back of a flying tigress. The Lhakhang was built around the cave in which Guru Rimpoche meditated. The hike to the viewpoint of the monastery makes for a nice half-day excursion; the thrill of the experience and the view from up above is truly rewarding.
In the afternoon we drive to Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan. The scenic two hour drive to Thimphu is along a winding road alongside the Paro and Thimphu rivers. We will pass by the Tamchoe Lhakhang as well as Chhodzomsa or the ‘Confluence of the three rivers.’ If interested you can also stop at the Tamchoe Lhakhang to see the perpetually fruit bearing orange tree. People believe that the tree bears oranges all year round. In the vicinity of the Lhakhang we can visit the cave in which Drubthob Thangthong Gyalpo – the renowned Iron Bridge Builder, is believed the have meditated.
Your night halt at Thimphu.
DAY3. Thimphu sightseeing.
Past experiences resulted in our coming to the conclusion that different guests have different opinions about what is interesting and what is not, about what they want to see and what they don’t. And therefore we decided that instead of us giving our guests stiff directions regarding which places they are to visit or what activities they are to do, we will leave the choice entirely up to them. Below is a list of some of the major attractions in Thimphu from which our guests can choose and decide for themselves. Our guides will always be at hand to provide you with their valuable suggestions.
- Tashichho Dzong – houses the throne room as well as the offices of the King of Bhutan, the Je-Khenpo (Chief Abbot) and other government offices. It is also the summer residence of the monastic body. The present Dzong was erected in 1968 around an older building, of which the central tower is a visible feature.
- National Memorial Chorten – was built in memory of the Third King of Bhutan. Glimpses of the Chorten in the early morning hours are indeed worthy of being deemed priceless. It is almost perpetually teeming with devotees circumambulating it because it is believed that it is a wish fulfilling monument.
- National Institute of Traditional Medicine – continues to nurture Bhutan’s reputation as ‘Lho Jong Men Jong’ or ‘Southern Land of Medicinal Herbs’ by continuing and promoting the age old healing and medicinal practices. Medicinal herbs are abundant in the kingdom and indigenous medicines are prepared here. The Institute also conducts training courses for practitioners.
- The Buddha Dordenma Statue – is a colossal and the largest Buddha statue in the world seated atop the Kuensel Phodrang Mountain, directly overlooking the city and affords a fabulous view of Thimphu valley.
- The National Post Office – is where the very famous Bhutanese stamps can be got hold of, to cater to all your philatelic needs.
- The Clock Tower Square – is a recently renovated square splat in the middle of the city. Fountains and miniature traditional Bhutanese prayer wheels add to making it a pleasant site to relax and chill out in the evenings.
- National Folk Heritage Museum – provides rare insights into the traditional Bhutanese ways of life within the setting of a traditional Bhutanese house. Bhutanese dances and exhibits are also held regularly inside the museum compound.
- Changangkha Lhakhang – built in the 12th century by Phajo Drugom Zhigpo, this temple hovers over a ridge above the Thimphu valley. It is the oldest temple in Thimphu and it houses Chenrizig: a 11-headed, thousand-armed manifestation of Avolokitesawara as the central statue.
- The Handicrafts Emporium – puts at your disposal a wide assortment of beautiful hand-woven and crafted products to choose from as souvenirs and gifts.
- BBS Radio Tower – is well worth the ten minute extra drive beyond the Takin Reserve. It offers splendid views of the city from a hilltop festooned with prayer flags. This is where the tower for the Bhutan Broadcasting Service – the National Television channel is located
- Takin Reserve – this is only place in Thimphu where the National Animal of Bhutan, Takin (budorcas taxicolor) is found. Bhutanese call it ‘Drong Gyemtse’. Legend has it that this animal was given life by the scandalously famous Drukpa Kinley, also known as the ‘Divine Madman’. It is said that since he was offered second-rate meat than the others during a meal he commanded the remaining bones of whatever animals that they were eating to rise saying ‘looks like you haven’t eaten well during your life time, so go and feed’. The bones miraculously merged into one and trotted off into the jungles. People believe that this is the reason for the Takin’s goat face and cow body. In addition to the Takin there are a few musk deer and barking deer as well.
- Zilukha Nunnery – the biggest nunnery in Bhutan is perched on a promontory overlooking the Tashichhodzong. The view of Tashichhodzong from the Nunnery is exquisite.
- National Library – provides a permanent home for the sacred religious books and manuscripts. The repository rooms of the archives houses an extensive collection of many rare and important documents including old records, letters, microfilms and around seven thousand important photographs. Thus the archive is the foundation of Bhutan’s National Memory Bank. Here one can also come across the largest published book in the world.
- The National Institute for Zorig Chusum (Traditional Arts and Crafts) – is a school of arts that trains students in Bhutan’s 13 traditional arts and crafts. Tertoen Pema Lingpa, the renowned Treasure Discoverer is credited to have introduced these art forms to the people of Bhutan. These traditional crafts are a representation of the centuries of knowledge and ability that has been handed down through generations of master craftsmen and artisans and has played a vital role in shaping the Bhutan’s unique culture and heritage. The wood working, black smithy and sculpting that are taught and practiced do make for an interesting visit.
- Semtokha Dzong – built in 1627 it is the oldest Dzong in the country. Today it houses the School for Buddhist Studies.
- Dochula Druk Wangyel Chorten – was built to commemorate the bravery of the Bhutanese forces who successfully managed to dispel the Indian insurgents who had illegally infiltrated the country in 2003. The 108 chortens were built in 2004, in memory of those that lost their lives during the military operations. Because of the unique dance movements, costumes and setting, the recently initiated Druk Wangyel Festival is an exclusive treat and a must see for locals and visitors alike.
***We can also check out the National Stadium at Changlimithang for archery matches or just take a leisurely stroll through the streets of Thimphu.
Your night halt at Thimphu.
DAY4. Thimphu day hike to Tango and Chari Monasteries
After breakfast we will take a 12 kilometer drive north of Thimphu from where we will begin our hike up to the approximately 400 year old Tango Monastery. It takes around 40 minutes of uphill hike through a lush forest of moss covered trees to reach the monastery. Tango Monastery is a Buddhist college, and the residence of the Desi Tenzin Rabgye, a young boy who is the reincarnation of Desi Tenzin Rabgye. The name Tango translates into ‘Horse Head’ and it confirms to the wrathful deity Hayagriva in whose form Avalokiteshvara revealed himself at the location where Tango Monastery now stands. During a visit to this place Phajo Drugom Zhigpo is said to have heard the neighing of a horse and seen the horse head shaped cliff engulfed in flames. The deity said to have appeared before him in person and prophesied that Phajo would build a meditation centre at Tango, marry his spiritual consort, Khando Sonam Peldon and lay the down the foundations for the Drukpa Kagyu School in Bhutan.
Tango Monastery was founded by Lama Gyalwa Lhanangpa in the 13th century and built in its present form by Desi Tenzin Rabgye the 4th Temporal Ruler. It is believed that the statues inside the temple shed tears at the time of Desi Tenzin Rabgye’s passing. Even today the tears stains can be traced out on the wall paintings while visiting the Monastery. Besides, there is a Kudung Chorten, a stupa where Gyalse Tenzin Rabgay’s ashes are kept. The sandalwood trees found in the vicinity are said to be Phajo Drugom Zhogpo’s walking sticks. The Chorten beside the cypress trees is the place where Khando Sonam Peldon, Phajo Drugom Zhigpo’s divine consort, attained enlightenment.
Chari monastery was established in 1620 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. It is the first of the many monasteries that Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal established in Bhutan. It is said that the Zhabdrung spent 3 years at the monastery himself. According to legends the monastery is located at a place first visited by Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century, and later Phajo Drugom Zhigpo in the 13th century. Cheri is one of the few monasteries in Bhutan that openly welcomes visitors in to its reclusive and traditional confines to see how monks perform age old Buddhist rituals and prayers. The Monastery is situated at an altitude of 2,600 meters on a steep mountain slope on the southern boundary of the 4,200 sq km Jigme Dorji Wangchuk National Park, and is in the transition zone between broad-leaved forests characterized by species such as oak, rhododendron, maple and walnut and conifer forests with species such as spruce, fir, hemlock and the Himalayan yew.
We can spend the evening exploring the Jigme Dorji Wanghuk National Park. It is the largest protected are in Bhutan. The park is named after the Third King of Bhutan, lovingly described as the Father of Modern Bhutan who expired in 1972.
Night halt at Thimphu.
DAY5. Thimphu to Wangduephodrang
After breakfast we will drive to Wangduephodrang with a stop en route stop for tea at the 10, 500 Dochula Pass. The Pass is popular for tourists for its ideal location from where one can enjoy 360 degree panoramic view of the Himalayan mountain range, especially on clear winter days. The beauty of this place is further enhanced by the Druk Wangyal Chortens-108 Stupas built by the eldest Queen Mother Her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk. The pass is also popular spiritual place for both locals and tourists because of an important temple that is located on the crest of Dochula pass. We can spend some time for photography here. Her Majesty Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck has achieved a fine blend of history and mythology in the construction of the Druk Wangyal Lhakhang to honor His Majesty the Fourth Druk Gyalpo, Jigme Singye Wangchuck. The past and future appear to merge in the details of the Lhakhang that tells the story of a supreme warrior figure whose vision pierces the distant future. The road to Wangduephodrang winds down from the Pass, meandering through magnificent pine and rhododendron forests, giving you glimpses into what the term quaint countryside means in Bhutan.
In the afternoon we proceed towards Punakha, the former capital of Bhutan and today the winter residence of the Central Monastic Body. We will then visit Punakha Dzong, initially named as Pungthang Dewa Chenpoi Phodrang or the ‘Palace of Great Bliss’, which was built in 1637 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel. Located at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and the Mo Chhu, this architectural marvel is the second oldest and the second largest in Bhutan. It is of great historical importance not only because it houses the precious relic – the Rangjung Kharsapani (over which many battles were fought between the Bhutanese and the Tibetans) and the sacred remains of the Zhabdrung and Tertoen Pema Lingpa, but because the Royal Wedding for the Fifth Monarch of Bhutan His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Wangchuck took place there. Each year, besides the Annual Tshechu there is a festival at the Dzong called the Punakha Dromchoe and it recalls the 1639 invasion of the country by the Tibetans who were successfully repulsed. Surreal sights, excellent views and a very calming experience await you at Punakha.
After that we will make a stop at Metsina village where we will visit the temple dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kinley – the Divine Madman. As a Buddhist master, Lama Drukpa Kuenley is placed among the highest levels of sainthood. But he is remembered more vividly for the outrageous nature of his teachings, which were administered in the most unexpected ways, often with a strong sexual overtones and inclinations. And because the Lhakhang is dedicated to him it is considered a temple of fertility. Most of the people who visit the temple do so to pray for children – either to ask for children by those who are childless or to seek protection for children by those who already have them. There are many people in Bhutan, and indeed in other parts of the world, who will vouch on the success of their prayers.
Night halt at Wangduephodrang.
DAY6. Wangduephodrang to Trongsa.
After breakfast we will begin the day by driving to Gangtey. We will pass through dense forests of oak trees and rhododendrons and arrive at Gangtey village where we will visit the Gangtey Goempa, an old monastery dating back to the 17th century and the only Nyingmapa monastery in Western Bhutan. Gangtey Gompa overlooks the large green expanse of Phobjikha, a glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountain range. The valley is an important wildlife centre in Bhutan and is the winter roosting grounds for the endangered blacked necked cranes that fly there from the Tibetan plateau. From there we will take a roughly four hour drive towards Trongsa. The route is along a spectacular winding road across the 3, 300 meters high Pele La Pass. At certain times of the year it is possible to see yaks. Trongsa is the ancestral home of the Royal Family. Both His Majesty King Ugyen Wangchuk, and His successor King Jigme Wangchuk, ruled the country from Trongsa. Even today, in continuation to that tradition, the Crown Prince of Bhutan is appointed the Trongsa Penlop prior to the ascending to the Golden Throne.
Yongzin Ngagi Wangchuk was guided in a vision by the guardian deity Palden Lhamo, to go to a place in central Bhutan which resembled a bowl. Accordingly he arrived in present day Trongsa sometime in 1541 and took up residence in the village of Yueli. One night while he was meditating, his attention was drawn by a flicker of light, resembling that of butter lamp burning in the open air, at the very spot where the present day Goenkhang of the Trongsa Dzong is located. In 1543, he established a small Tshamkhang (meditation quarter) in the sacred spot and meditated there. He soon attracted a number of disciples who built their own meditation unit around the main Tshamkhang. The cluster of newly built meditation quarters gradually developed into a new community settlement and hence the name Trongsa which means ‘new village.’
In the afternoon you can browse through the shops in Trongsa. Trongsa can be a good shopping stop. Besides the textiles which the local population weave from hand – dyed wool they also sell traditional style machine woven carpets.
Night halt in Trongsa.
DAY7. Trongsa to Bumthang.
In the morning we will visit the Trongsa Dzong which is the largest Dzong in Bhutan. At an altitude of 7,500 feet it is a labyrinth of temples, corridors and office holding court over the local community. Protected from invaders by an impenetrable valley, Trongsa Dzong used to be an impregnable fortress. The Dzong is a massive structure with many levels, sloping down the contours of the ridge on which it is built. Because of the highly strategic position of the Dzong, on the only connecting route between the east and the west, the Trongsa Penlop was able to effectively control the whole of the central and eastern regions of the country from here. The Dzong was originally built in 1648 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, which was later extended by its powerful Penlops, and the sixteenth Desi Sonam Lhundub. It was the seat of power over central and eastern Bhutan. Trongsa Dzong is the ancestral home of the Royal Family and both the First and Second King of Bhutan ruled the country from this ancient seat. All four Kings held the post of Trongsa Penlop prior to being crowned King. We will also visit the Ta Dzong. This watchtower, which once guarded Trongsa Dzong from internal rebellion, stands on a steep slope above the town. It now houses a shrine dedicated to the epic hero, King Gesar of Ling. A visit to this former watchtower will provide you with a deep insight into the significance of Trongsa in Bhutan’s history.
After lunch we will proceed to Bumthang. The Yutongla pass and a series of hair raising- bends at 11,500 feet separates the valley of Trongsa and Bumthang. Views of Trongsa valley on ascent are superb. Bumthang is the religious heartland of the nation and home to some of the oldest Buddhist temples and monasteries. It was here that Guru Padmasambhava cured a local king Sindhu Raja of a spirit induced ailment in the 8th century which resulted in the whole country embracing Buddhism. And it was here that the legendary saint and Treasure Discoverer Pema Lingpa to whom the Bhutanese Royal Family traces their descent, was born. En route to Bumthang we will stop at the Yathra Centers where locally dyed sheep and yak wool are woven into brightly colored and distinctively beautiful hand bags, wall hangs, table centers, purses, jackets and a lot more. You can actually catch the women in action as they go about weaving elaborate pieces out of the dyed wool. The evening can be spent strolling through the streets of Bumthang. Bumthang is famous for its honey production, cheese, apples and apricots. Its arable land and Swiss and German Aid Projects have helped the local economy to dramatically improve over recent years.
DAY8. Hike to Pedtsheling Monastery
After breakfast we begin our hike towards Pedtsheling Goempa which is a sacred monastery with rich historic values. Situated on a steep mountain, it is a half day trek, roughly 3 to 4 hours, from Jakar. The trek starts off at a mild pace but later gains momentum. Along the trek route, travelers are gifted with breathtaking views of the valley and large species of flora and fauna. About two thirds of the way, there is a beautiful meadow which is a perfect picnic spot. The last part of the hike requires more uphill trek until eventually the destination is in sight. If interested, we can also hike beyond the monastery across the ridge and savor the magical experience of the crisp, chilly mountain air. We can spend the evening relaxing in town.
Night halt at Bumthang.
DAY9. Sightseeing in Bumthang.
Past experiences resulted in our coming to the conclusion that different guests have different opinions about what is interesting and what is not, about what they want to see and what they don’t. And therefore we decided that instead of us giving our guests stiff directions regarding which places they are to visit or what activities they are to do, we will leave the choice entirely up to them. Below is a list of some of the major attractions in Bumthang from which our guests can choose and decide for themselves. Our guides will always be at hand to provide you with their valuable suggestions.
- Jakar Dzong – founded by the Zhabdrung’s Great Grandfather Ngagi Wangchuck, Jakar Dzong literally translates into ‘Fortress of the White Bird’. According to legend, when the lamas assembled to select a site for a monastery, a big white bird suddenly rose into the air and settled on a spur of a hill. This was interpreted as an auspicious omen and the hill chosen as the site for the Monastery. Its official name is Yuelay Namgyal Dzong, in honor of the victory over the troops of the Tibetan ruler Phuntsho Namgyal. The Utse or central tower is unusually situated on the outside wall, so there is no way to circumambulate it.
- Jambey Lhakhang – was built in the 7th Century by the Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo. Legend has it that the temple was built to pin down the left knee of a demoness who lay across the Himalayas, and that it is one of 108 temples built by the Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo in a single day. Revered as one of the oldest landmarks of the arrival of Buddhism in Bhutan, this temple holds a unique Tshechu or festival. The highlight of this festival is a fire dance that is performed to purify sins and augur a good harvest.
- Kurjey Lhakhang – was built in the 17th century by Chogyal Minjur Tempa, around a rock which bears the sacred imprint of Guru Rimpoche’s body. The Guru is believed to have meditated here in the 8th Century. Upon entering, the first temple to the right, is the Guru Lhakhang which houses the cave in which Guru mediated. Beside the Monastery is a tall cypress tree which is believed to have sprouted from the walking stick of Guru Rinpoche.
- Tamshing Lhakhang – located in a village across the river from Kurjey Lhakhang, it is the seat of Tertoen Pema Lingpa. A skilled tantric master and an artist, he is believed to have personally sculpted the main statues and painted the frescoes. They can be seen even today, mostly in their original states. There is also a chain mail made by Pema Lingpa that devotees carry and circumambulate the inner sanctum. The throne from which he performed the consecration ceremony is preserved in a small temple outside the main hall. The physical structure surrounding the main inner temple was restored at the end of the 19th century. Pema Lingpa’s expansive skills in building, painting, sculpture and metal work can still be seen, for the most part in its original state.
- Mebartsho – or the ‘Burning Lake’ in Tang valley is a wide spot on the Tang Chhu and is considered to be one of the greatest pilgrimage sites in Bhutan. Tertoen Pema Linga found several of Guru Rinpoche’s hidden treasures here. It is believed that he dived into the lake in the presence of several skeptical spectators with a burning lamp and later emerged from the lake with several treasures and the lamp still burning.
- Konchogsum Lhakhang – was built in the 6th century but was renovated in 1995, which accounts for its fresh look. It contained a large bell and it is said that when this bell was rung it could be heard all the way in Lhasa in Tibet. It is said that during the 17th century people from the Tibetan army tried to steal this bell but was too heavy and they dropped it and cracked it. It is now displayed at the National Museum in Paro.
- Chaskhar Lhakhang – is the site of the palace of the Indian King Sindhu Raja. Because of its simplicity it looks like an ordinary village house. The original palace was built out of iron and this is why it was named Chaskhar, meaning iron castle. It was rebuilt in the 14th century by a Saint called- Dorji Lingpa.
- Thangbi Goempa –this monastery is situated in the middle of a wide fertile plateau overlooking the river. Founded in 1470 by Zhamar Rinpoche of the Karma Kagyupa Religious School, the building comprises two sanctuaries and a temple of tutelary deities. The ground floor houses statues of the past, present and future Buddhas, and three clay statues probably date back to the 15th century. On the upper floor, the foyer contains two remarkable paintings of Guru Rinpoche’s and the Buddha Amitabha’s Heavens.
*** You can spend the evening strolling through the shops at Chamkhar in the evening.
Night halt at Bumthang.
DAY10. Bumthang to Wangduephodrang.
We will begin our day at the Bumthang market and then commence our return journey towards Wangduephodrang.
Night halt at Wangduephodrang.
DAY11. Wangduephodrang to Thimphu.
After breakfast we continue our onward journey towards Thimphu and in the afternoon we will visit any of the places of interest in Thimphu that you have missed out on earlier. You can spend the evening walking around and shopping in town.
Night halt at Thimphu.
DAY12. Thimphu to Paro
After breakfast we will drive to Paro. And in the afternoon, we will go for a leisurely stroll across a traditional wooden bridge and a flagstone path up to Paro Rinpung Dzong. This massive structure was built in 1646 and its central tower or the ‘Utse’, clad in exquisitely superb woodwork is considered the most beautiful tower in the kingdom. It houses the government offices and religious institutions as do all the Dzongs in the country. Next, we visit the Ta Dzong or the National Museum, high on a promontory overlooking the Paro valley. Built in 1645, it used to serve as the watchtower for the Dzong in the past, hence the name ‘Ta’ which literally translates into ‘look’. Today it is the National Museum; it houses a huge collection of antiques of invaluable historical significance.
And in the evening visit a traditional farmhouse, enjoy a typical Bhutanese dinner and pamper yourself with a relaxing traditional hot stone bath at Hotel Tashi Phutshok.
Night halt at Paro.
Please note that guests wishing to lodge in four or five star hotels do have the option of doing so but will have to bear the extra charges themselves and also the ‘hot stone baths’ and cultural programs are not included in the total cost of the trip.
DAY13. Departure from Paro